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(I was writing this last night and felt like I am being a real
curmudgeon on this topic - I wasn't going to send it, because
basically I really appreciate the spirit of inventiveness, and my
arguement about the fact that "prof. roasters don't do it" rings a
bit hollow. Nonetheless, there are some points here about how water
has been used in roasting to increase salable product, and my own
tests so far so ...)
Some random thoughts and 2 bit opinions in concurrence with the above....
I don't want to rain on the parade hear (or the coffee) but I am
still convinced that this wetting thing is a bad idea, even as I
carry out some experiments of my own. I have only worked with a
Yirgacheffe on it, and did some roasts with various soak times and
roast times yesterday and cupped them today. In line with other
peoples findings, the cup was flattened in all cases, and I noticed
some off notes - but the main loss was in acidity. I know people are
going at this with the low acid coffees with more success that the
bright ones (the coffees I mean) and I havent tried that yet. But you
have to believe that if there was ANY way in the world that you could
add water to coffee before or during the roast process, it would be
done in commercial coffee roasting. Indeed it is, in cooling on large
roasters and the results are quick cool times but a greater surface
porousity in the roasted coffee and quicker oxidation/ lack of
freshness over time. Everyone in the commercial end knows this.
Another highly unscrupulous use of water quenching in big roasters is
to add moisture content back to the coffee. Coffee is sold by weight
right? You are making some pretty good money by any method of
increasing the weight of the product. I even stumbled across a real
weasel in the coffee trade who is making a digital device to automate
the reintroduction of water to coffee in the cooling process that
tells you how much you need to cool it, and how much you can get away
with in terms of increasing the weight. Ugh.... (This effort to
increase coffee weight also includes adding chaff back to roasted
coffee if it is ultimately going to be ground. There are machines
that specifically add water to chaff and regrind it so it is
indistinguishable in the final R&G product.)
All this is done by the bottom-feeders in the coffee trade. But I
would say that if you could add water to green and end up with less
weight loss overall you would be doing the same thing. But of course
this experimentation is done not to "clean" the coffee like that
yahoo commercial roaster I mentioned before (hey- he's a yahoo,
there's no other way to put it) or to increase our yield. Rather it
is to shape our roast profiles and extend roast times. But why? I
would never put a coffee in my Probat that took 12 minutes to acheive
a good roast, and choose to roast it 20. I wnat to achieve a sound
roast while exposing coffee to heat for the shortest amount of time
necessary, not the longest. Drum roasters take longer because you
would scorch coffee in the warmup phase by transferring heat to it
too quickly - air roasters reduce this warmup phase greatly by a more
efficient heat transfer dynamic. If you could warmup coffee quickly
and evenly in a drum roaster without fear of scorching or tipping,
you would ... and in fact that is why the Lilla is a great roaster -
basically an air roaster / drum roaster hybrid. I think what an air
roast profile needs is a throrough and even warmup with good
agitation through the air stream and a slower finish, with an
extension of the time between 1st and 2nd crack - the Freshroast
finishes hot and fast, the i-Roast has a nice long pause between
cracks - the folks using Variacs on Rostos and poppers I think are,
for the most part, going for this "slower-finish" technique. ALl of
my wet roasts have had very poor initial agitation because the coffee
is heavy and sticky, meaning I had to shake the roaster to get
movement with even a reduced batch - so I am basically getting more
unevenness in the roasting. I prepared a quick sample of the Yirg at
City+ in the cupping brew method and actually was a little impressed
- this was right after roasting. But I noticed the head on the cup,
foam that is largely due to CO2 degassing, which would normally be
huge right after roasting, was reduced. (Could be from long roast
times that more CO2 is lost, or could be from the soak). SO maybe
what we are seeing in rapidly diminishing cup quality is similar to
over-quench cooled roasts, but in a more extreme way. I will say
this, I expected some of my Yirg. cups to be a lot worse than they
were - especially the one I soaked for an hour! Considering what it
went through, it wasn't THAT bad... but I would say there was an odd
sort of rubbery taint in the cup.
OK - sorry if all this seems grouchy. I can be wrong about this whole
thing and I certainly have been wrong about a lot of things in
coffee. Who knows, maybe in 5 years every coffee roaster in the
country will be soaking roasts!
Tom
--
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"Great coffee comes from tiny roasters"
Sweet Maria's Home Coffee Roasting - Tom & Maria
http://www.sweetmarias.com Thompson Owen george |