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Topic: drums for bbq, rotisserie, etc roasters. (5 msgs / 113 lines)
1) From: Robert Cantor
Those of you who've made drums - what thickness metal, size hole and spacing
between holes have you used?  How many pounds of coffee would you say your
drum holds?
Thanks!
Bob C.
rcantor
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2) From: Jim McClellan
<Snip>
spacing
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I am not sure of the gauge, thick enough to hold shape, but thin enough to
be cut with tin snips. The holes are pretty small, maybe a 1/16", the
spacing shows pretty good in the photos. If you would like, I can measure
them tonight. I simply used what I could get that looked like it would work.
My son posted some pictures of the drum. Here is the URL:http://www.crosswinds.net/~cadden/dad/A brief description:
Materials: used perforated stainless steel, 6" hose clamps, sheet metal
screws.
The final roaster is 12" long with a 6" diameter (all are approximate). The
hose clamps were used to hold the metal in place while I put in the screws,
then I left them there. Maybe they will help it hold the shape. I cut the
metal with tin snips. The scraps were used for the 3 rows of agitation fins
(top picture shows 1 row, they are offset and overlapping). The screws
protruding into the drum aid agitation. The ends were formed by cutting
strips at the end of the tube and folding them in to center while
overlapping the edges in such a way that the cooking beans will roll off.
Holes were then drilled to accommodate the clamping skewers that normally go
in the chicken. For the open end, shorter strips were cut to leave a 2 to 3"
hole (3rd picture from top). The beans go in this open end (using a piece of
folded metal as funnel). It is very easy to monitor the color of the roast
by looking in the open end. When the proper roast is reached, the beans are
dumped from the open end for cooling and de-chaffing. I really like being
able to clearly hear the cracks. The rotisserie motor makes a lot less noise
than an air popper.
I took less than a day to construct once I hit upon the design. Finally
giving up on using a can or some such for the ends (how to attach) and
hitting on an open end design instead of trying to construct a removable end
or trap door in the drum. I didn't need any special tools or knowledge, good
thing, as I am not all that mechanically inclined!
It is not perfectly round, nor does it rest straight horizontal. This was of
course by design to aid in bean agitation ;) I am just using a standard
rotisserie attachment for a gas grill.
I have tried roasting amounts from 8 oz to 1 pound, all worked well. It
seems it could easily hold more. I have never wanted to roast larger
quantities. When I want a smaller roast, I use a popper. Not sure how a 4 oz
roast would work.
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3) From: jim gundlach
on 7/5/01 1:42 PM, Robert Cantor at rcantor wrote:
<Snip>
I haven't built one yet but I will be building it with perforated 26 Gage
brass, that is .016" thick with .138 holes spaced at .1875 giving 43% open
area.  That is as close as I could get to the 1/8 spaced at 3/16 that I have
in the Androck fireplace popcorn popper.
   Jim Gundlach
   Roasting over pecan wood fires
   in Shorter, AL.
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4) From: Charles Jacobs
 
Here are some more picture details of the Saeco/Estro home roaster.http://home.adelphia.net/~cnjacobs/roast/parts.htmlThe holes in the drum are 1/8 inch in diameter.  The thickness of the 
metal is approximately that of a heavy duty utility knife blade 
(marked at .025 but no units given).  It may be one grade thicker 
than that.  The endpieces and internal fins are twice as thick as the 
drum.
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5) From: Robert Cantor
I'm thinking of building a twelve in diameter drum, 11 in long that will
hold 5 lb.  I may tear out the heating elements of a Foreman Rotisserie and
put something gutsy in there
Bob C.
rcantor


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