Hi List, I have tried looking for the answer to this question in my gmail list archive but did not see it. I have a 1400 W pumper. If I try to roast coffee "stock" the whole thing shuts off after ~5 minutes of roasting time. If I repeat this several times= , I can get adequately "city" roasted coffee, if somewhat muted. I want to remove the thermal fuse from the pumper but I cannot find it. I seem to remember someone posting on how to do mods for the 1400 W pumper and that this one was included. Thanks, Scott |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. here is Feliz dials upgrades on popers hope it helps RKhttp://members.cox.net/felixdial/popper.mods.shtml |
Thanks Ron, Looking at that page, I can see that he indeed talks about the 1400 W version, and the inside look exactly like the insides of the one I have. The only tweek I done on mine is remove what he calls "thermal fuse" shown in Fig 5. This did not help. The popper still shuts down after ~5 minutes of roasting. Whatever it is, its removal did not help my problem. Any thoughts on what this thing is, I also see that it is found on WB poppery 1= . I will bypass/disable the "thermostat" tonight. Scott On 5/4/06, rnkyle wrote: <Snip> |
Scott, I am confused when you say it "shuts down after ~5 minutes". Are you referring to the heat or the whole machine including the fan? If you are referrring to just the heat, your plan to "I will bypass/disable the "thermostat" tonight." is your solution. If you are referring to the whole machine, including the fan, shutting down....it sounds like you are developing an "open" in the wiring when it heats up. I would imagine a new power cord and redoing all the power terminations should clear it up. Mike (just plain) |
A couple months ago I found an a Popcorn Pumper, a big old heavy one, in a thrift shop. I tried it and the same thing happened that you describe. A ways into the roast (don't have my notes here) it shut down completely, as though unplugged. I finished in another popper. The next day I plugged in the Pumper and it ran. I havne't had a chance to fiddle around with it since. Brian On 5/4/06, Scott Morrison wrote: <Snip> n <Snip> s <Snip> 1. <Snip> |
Micheal and Brian, The whole popper shuts down as if unplugged. While it is off, I spread the beans out onto a piece of newspaper. If I listen carefully, I can hear the pumper emit a click after which it will run again. This is what make me think it is some sort of safety mechanism causing the premature shutdown. I suppose if I were to re-wire it, I might as well split wire it too. I normally roast in a SS B2B manual roaster, I was just experimenting with = a popper as a back up or alternate. Scott On 5/4/06, Brian Kamnetz wrote: <Snip> |
Scott, I am not an expert on the pumper, I stay pretty much with Poppery 1s. After taking another look at the picture on the Felix Dial site that Ron left the link to, It looks like the power wire goes to a over temp switch prior to powering the fan and heater. Again the link that Ron posted is:http://members.cox.net/felixdial/popper.mods.shtml. Under the section titled "1400Watt WearEver Pumper", look at "Figure Two". The little assembly at about 5;30 'O' Clock in the picture has got to be the culpret. You can see that both the small black power wire to the fan and a large white power wire to the heater are hooked to one terminal and the supply power wire hooks to the other terminal. This thing may be adjustable. I usually remove and wire around this type of thing (hook all three wires together) because I never leave my roaster un-attended and I'm comfortable with my ability to turn it off when necessary. But seeing as how it is a safety feature, I can not (in print) recommend that course of action to anyone else. This arrangement is different from the way the thermostat is installed in a Poppery 1. In the P1 the thermostat only controls power to the heater (not the fan), shutting down the fan when the machine is overheated and you need to cool things down doesn't seem like the right course of action. If I were intent on keeping this safety feature I think I would try adjusting and readjusting until it allows the heater to give you the bean temperature you are after, and I'd move the power wire for the fan to the power side terminal so it would stay running when this thing cycles the heater. Mike (just plain) |
Yup, The Pumper is a total shutdown with the thermal protection in place. I have one and really like the profile it does. Make sure you plug the butter hole! There is a hole in the roast chamber to right under the butter pan. I plugged mine with a Barnes X 30 cal. bullet. Total copper so I don't worry about lead. It has a good chamber and puts out almost as good as a Poppery I. Les On 5/4/06, Michael Dhabolt wrote: <Snip> ribes) go tohttp://sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html#personalsettings<Snip> |
"The little assembly at about 5;30 'O' Clock in the picture has got to be the culpret. You can see that both the small black power wire to the fan and a large white power wire to the heater are hooked to one terminal and the supply power wire hooks to the other terminal. This thing may be adjustable. I usually remove and wire around this type of thing (hook all three wires together) because I never leave my roaster un-attended...". Mike (just plain), Am I understanding you correctly that a way to bypass this switch (if, of course, one were to disregard the safety concerns) would be to disconnect the two white wires and the one black wire and twist all three together? Anything else to bear in mind? Thanks, Brian On 5/4/06, Michael Dhabolt wrote: <Snip> ribes) go tohttp://sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html#personalsettings<Snip> |
Brian, That is a good question, How exactly do I bypass this safety feature (I wil= l to take responsibility) ? Thanks Mike and Les for the suggestions, I have the butter hole plugged with a wad of aluminum foil. BTW, I did not try any mods last night, it was too cold and rainy here. Scott |
Brian, Scott, <Snip> Yes you understand correctly. A 'feature' such as this overtemp switch just 'Opens' (disconnects the two terminals) the circuit when it reaches its set point. So hooking all three wires that are connected to it together, removes the culpret from the ciruit. <Snip> These are current carrying wires so be sure that your connection is well insulated to make sure it doesn't short if it inadvertantly touches anything. Looking at the pictures, it looks like the wires could be pulled back down into the lower plastic case and the connection kept in this lower temperature location. That would leave only the large black and one large white wire (to the heater terminals) in the upper area. A connection using a double ended male spade and well insulated with electrical tape / shrink tubing etc. is probably what I'd do. I'm not a big enthusiast of wiring nuts, but cutting the female spade connections off the wires stripping a bit of insulation from them and using a wiring nut would work also. If you decide to split the circuits this would be the time to do it. Even if you don't decide on this course of action, this would be a good time to take the fan out of the switched circuit and swap it's wires directly to the power cord. Leave the switch controlling the heater only. This will allow turning the heater off at the end of roast and cooling with just the fan running. The dual power cord arrangement allows you to control the heater with a variac or other control device without affecting the fan. If you do a dual power cord split of the circuits, use a little larger power cord for the heater circuit and a modern plug with one wide and one thin blade. Make sure that the cord used for the heater circuit has the 'Hot' wire switched, this is the wire connected to the 'thin' blade of your wall recepticle, the 'common' / 'neutral' wire is the one connected to the 'wide' blade of the wall recepticle. By following this practice you are making sure that the rest of the ciruit is at neutral state when the switch is off. Mike (just plain) |
Mike, You said "The dual power cord arrangement allows you to control the heater with a variac or other control device without affecting the fan. If you do a dual power cord split of the circuits, use a little larger power cord for the heater circuit and a modern plug with one wide and one thin blade. Make sure that the cord used for the heater circuit has the 'Hot' wire switched, this is the wire connected to the 'thin' blade of your wall recepticle, the 'common' / 'neutral' wire is the one connected to the 'wide' blade of the wall recepticle. By following this practice you are making sure that the rest of the ciruit is at neutral state when the switch is off." I have a thick cord just begging to be used for this purpose, however it is a three prong-grounded style. It contains three shielded wires on the inside, blue, brown and green w/ yellow stripe. It also contains an unshielded thinner non-copper wire that looks to be there for structural integrity. Which one of these will be hot and which neutral. Also what should I do with the remaining ground wire? Sorry to ask so many questions= , but I think this technical know-how is great for roasters of all kinds. Thanks, Scott |
Scott, <Snip> The green with yellow stripe will be the ground. Blue and brown don't say anything to me so I would check between the bitter end of the wires and the plug with a meter. The wire that has continuity to the thin blade on the plug would go to the supply side of the switch (which will supply power to the heater when switched on), the wire that has continuity to the wide blade on the plug would go to the wire that is hooked to the other terminal of the heater. The short pieces of wire that are already hooked up in the upper section of the pumper are probably high temp wires (it gets hot next to the metal roast chamber) so I would leave them in place and connect to them in the lower (cooler) plastic housing. These machines did not originally use a ground (they have a two prong plug) so a person could just cut the ground wire off - or - if there is an easy place to hook it up to the metal housing -- you could do that. Mike (just plain) |
Mike, It turns out on my cord that brown is the switch side and blue is return/neutral. Just to make sure I understand this set-up, the new cord I just got will supply power to the heater, through the rocker switch on the front of the popper. The fan will be supplied with power through the current pumper cord, with no interruption. All of this will be set-up bypassing the "thermosotat" at 5:30 in Figure 2. This is going to be a fun weekend. Scott On 5/5/06, Michael Dhabolt wrote: <Snip> |
Scott, You got it! have fun, and start searching for a small variac for your fan (picture in the other thread). It'll do wonders for your roaster control. Mike (just plain) |
Mike, Brian, and Les, Thanks for all your help and suggestions. I will update once I know haow it all turns out, or as soon as I have another question. Scott On 5/5/06, Michael Dhabolt wrote: <Snip> |
Mike (just plain), Scott, and Les, Thanks for all the food for thought. I have a rather large project (moving) just about out of the way, and in the next couple months will probably have some time. I have been roasting with a Poppery II lightly modded (switch to the heat element) but in the next month or so I hope to dig out the big old Pumper and start playing with mods to the fan and heat. Should be fun! This discussion will certainly come out of the mothballs at that time. Thanks again for all the good info. Brian On 5/5/06, Scott Morrison wrote: <Snip> |
I plugged mine with a <Snip> What kind of muzzle velocity and accuracy do you get with a Poppery I? :) |
Other than unplug it first? ;) I'd be concerned about the method used to tie them together. Don't use plastic wire nuts from the hardware store. Use something that'll take the heat. If possible, reuse existing terminals -- if you can connect all three wires to one terminal on the overtemp devic= e would be a good way to go. On 5/5/06, Brian Kamnetz wrote: <Snip> -- "Life is just one damned thing after another." - Elbert Hubbard |
Scott, I still believe that the Poppery 1 and the Wearever Pumper 1400 are the best bang for your buck out there. So, good luck and don't fret you will be doing as good or better roasts than any of the electric commercial roasters out there in MNSHO. I have not tried a SC/TO, but my guess is it is a fine way to roast too! Maybe I will build one this winter just to say I have done it! Les On 5/5/06, Scott Morrison wrote: <Snip> |
Man say: "It has a good chamber and puts out almost as good as a..." That's what you'd call a Real Popper. Bet you get a bang out of it! -ro -- "When the theme hits the bass, I dance the Jig!" - -Virgil Fox at the Might= y Wichita WurliTzer- 1976 |