Afternoon all- I separated a shoulder a couple of weeks ago and have been roasting in my i-roast because I can do it with one arm. Today I thought the shoulder was good enough to let me dump my SCTO which I much prefer to my i-roast. So I put it all together and turned it on to preheat while I measured out some liquid amber. Came back and there was no heat from the TO. Fan was running fine, indicator light was on, but no heat. I turned it off and on, went through the entire temperature range, and still nothing. Darn. Looks like after 230 roasts it's finally stopped heating. I've had a few odd roasts where the temperatures didn't seem to be rising like they should, but it never failed to heat. Anyone else had their TO just up and quit on them? So now the dilemma...do I buy a new TO or a whole new roasting set-up. Guess I'll have to think about that one a bit. At least I still have the i-roast so I'm not stuck w/o homeroast while I make a decision. So I was able to get my liquid amber roasted and did the last of the Misty Valley...hopefully the new batch is as good as this last one. Demian |
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Yeppers, my old analog version of the TO died when it finally ate more = chaff & smoke than was good for it. The entire insides were coated with = yellow smokey gunk. I suspect it overheated once too often. I replaced = it with the newer digital version from Sunpentown (SO-2001) and have had = no issues with it. I see there is the new one with the Nano Carbon Fiber = Heating device available now too. btw, if you look under "Parts" you can get the digital oven top without = the bowl for only $55 +s/h Bob |
Might just need to clean the thermostat to get proper contact Ed On 9/29/07, Demian Ebert wrote: <Snip> |
That's a go idea Ed, perhaps I'll take it apart and see what it looks like. Wouldn't be surprised if it's just coated with gunk. A good rainy day project. Demian On 9/29/07, Edward Bourgeois wrote: <Snip> |
Hi Demian, I have been roasting for a few years now with the same Turbo Oven, but have had to remove: the thermostat, the timer, the safety switch, and in fact ALL the wiring and anything else between the plug and the heater coil! It was designed for minimal home use, so the tiny wires going to the element and all the connectors and and contacts over heated and fried. Solution? Run 12 or even 10 gage wire *directly* to the heating element, and control the heater with a simple on off switch mounted externally. Run the blower the same way, on a different circuit. Works fine, last long time :) Hope this helps, PeterZ The temp finally stayed below 100F all day! here in LHC, AZ Demian Ebert wrote: <Snip> |
Thanks Peter. Makes sense. Right now I can't even get the silly thing apart. Two of the three screws holding the fan guard in place are locked solid and with a bum right shoulder I can't put the pressure or torque on them I need to to perhaps break them loose. I could cut them off with the dremel, but there'd be more below that. Maybe I'll buy a second one and take this one apart when I've got the arm strength back. FWIW, it's been raining in the Portland area on an off since last friday. We're probably over 2 inches by now and it's been a long time since it's been over 100F. Demian On 9/30/07, Peter Z wrote: <Snip> |